Tod’s Fall 2022 Menswear Collection

Walter Chiapponi’s gentle determination is pushing Tod’s in a direction that is synchronized with the times, while keeping the pedigree of the luxury casual wear label at the center. Having earned his beliefs in houses like Gucci, Miu Miu and Valentino, where talking style is as natural as breathing, Chiapponi is introducing a greater sensibility to fashion into Tod’s repertoire. He understands that if you don’t keep up with today’s thirst for new things, which extends to all customers regardless of age, you fall behind mercilessly.

Passionate about contemporary art with a penchant for the whole of the 70s, Chiapponi shot the video of the autumn collection at Castello di Rivoli, which houses a state-of-the-art contemporary art museum located in the hills surrounding Turin, an elegant city from noble past as the Italian capital under the reign of the Savoy, and called Little Paris for its chic atmosphere.

Formal tailoring is not part of Tod’s bourgeois repertoire, but a certain casual sophistication is what Chiapponi is mixing into the mix, giving leisure time a kind of soigné subversion. “I like to work on style stereotypes, almost undermining them with a sense of luxury,” he said in preview. From the 1970s he borrowed the everyday uniform consisting of tight three-quarter sheepskin, drawstrings, bell-bottoms, square cut navy peacoats and heavy Norwegian sweaters, and transformed it into a silhouette younger and more relaxed, rendered in a color palette reminiscent of vintage car interiors.

The outerwear was full of slim quilted down jackets, sport jackets and windbreakers in a hairy wool texture; the jacket-shirt suit, which is emerging in many collections as an easy alternative to formal options, was proposed here in a gray flannel version, paired with matching cargo pants worn tucked into socks like trackpants.

Working closely with the artisans in the atelier to find new techniques and creative solutions to refresh the classics is one of Chiapponi’s pleasures. This season he attacked the bastion of the Rubber, the brand’s signature elastic moccasin inspired by driving shoes, whose sole is made up of tiny rubber dots; called Winter Gommino, the new version was offered in unbleached suede, with more prominent rubber spheres and a more modern and cool shape. Slowly, but surely, Chiapponi is making the change happen at Tod’s.

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