The battle of the blouses – fashion archive, 1923 | Fashion

T.The old stiff collared and cuffed blouses would hardly recognize their today’s descendants with the baggy necks, long straight lines, the complete absence of stiffness, which are protests against any tendency to hut and border.

But even the straight blouse, so easy and so flowing, was under a cloud. He has largely switched to the dress, and his independent existence has been threatened by his own ease.

Now again the blouse as a unit is making another favor offer. Will it be long, very long, enough to reach almost to the bottom of the dress? Should it continue to be part of the dress or should it just compromise as it constitutes an adequate contrast?

Either type of blouse or sweater or casaquin, as they can be called, seek dominance – a process which, in reality, is a deadly fight between seamstresses and shirt makers as separate organizations.

There is undoubtedly a lot to be said for the separate blouse, despite the discredit it once held in such concepts as the “elegant” blouse. The time has passed when, like an ostrich, people wore a different blouse and thought the rest didn’t matter. The other extreme is the dress that is reminiscent of only the blouse as the top is made of a different material than the bottom.

Peasant blouse
There is, however, a middle ground, based on the fact that the blouse is actually a traditional garment among the human race, as traditional as a headdress that eventually becomes a hat.

Peasant blouses in various parts of the world testify to the permanent factor in blouses, and in fact the peasant blouse has stood up to all the different fortunes of the trendy blouse.

“Peasant” blouse (right), Manchester Guardian, 17 December 1923,

Peasant blouses have been adapted to modern needs, at least in form. Slavic embroidery can be used on any type of neck and the blouse can slide on the hips, or, as in current comfort, be collected in the embroidered belt, which more or less tightly wraps the hips. The features that are retained are the long flowing sleeves, the fullness of which falls well on the hand, and the crepe material which allows for a large amount of close gathering.

The embroidery is also generally placed in a characteristic position, such as around the central part of the sleeves and in a kind of ephod, back and front.

This fashion for peasant blouses, by the way, is providing a lot of work to destitute Russians in Paris, who are called upon to both design and do embroidery. The contrasting blouse frankly harks back to an earlier fashion and is often in white, silk or cotton. When it is silk, crepe-de-Chine and very thick Chinese silk can be used; in cotton and linen dimity, organza, lawn and other very white or very transparent materials are used.

This is a modified extract.

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