As the year draws to a close, the AnOther Magazine team reflects on their favorite fashion moments from the past 12 months
Susannah Frankel, managing editor
“Gucci Love Parade. He was so ambitious, so bold and expressed with such warmth and humanity. Despite the mythical place, it was a world unto itself, a world that recognizes the magical power of fashion but always with the importance of a cultural context in mind. It seems more meaningful than ever now. It was also nice to see a McQueen show in London: the skies under which we all grew up together were the background and then they were also printed on the clothes. It’s a great idea. Comme des Garçons. All time. The scale of Rei Kawakubo’s imagination and her drive to create without compromise is very moving. “
Katie Shillingford, fashion director (womenswear)
“Saint Lawrence. It was my first time back to Paris seeing shows from a pre-pandemic PFW in 2020, just days before the world was frozen. Sitting in that monumental space, right in front of the Eiffel Tower, just as they turn on the twinkling lights at 8pm, was quite magical in and of itself … followed by the most formidable line of women who stormed the runway in towering strippers shoes, each with their own powerful look (be it a bare chest under a trouser suit with a wallet tucked into the belt, a jacket without pants, a rose-print Lycra leotard) and stilettos, without never waver even on the wet runway.
“It felt like the essence of Saint Laurent and it reminded me of why I love fashion and why I love to watch fashion shows in person. The glitz and glamor of it all, the sparkling Eiffel Tower and the rain pouring down the runway: it’s it was really fabulous and it was one of the happiest moments of the whole season ”.
Ellie Grace Cumming, fashion director (menswear)
“Dior Men. Kim had an extraordinary year, starting with the beautiful and poetic Peter Doig collection, followed by the Dior x Sacai collaboration and the incredible Cactus Jack show with Travis Scott in Paris, ending with the London Jack Kerouac homecoming collection.
“Louis Vuitton for men. The most incredible show of June, which at the time everyone felt how special it was but no one knew would be Virgil’s last moment, the Miami show a few days after his passing will remain in all our memories as the most touching celebration of the his life and creative journey.
“A personal highlight was still working on Kim’s first Fendi Couture show in February. Amid coven restrictions, the show was shot with no audience, a tribute to Virginia Woolf, with Kim’s incredible library of her books set up in a viewing room, a cast of the most inspiring women, we all cried in awe following the special moment that had united us all.
“Aside from that, up-and-coming menswear designers like SS Daley, Phipps and Thebe Magugu have shown extraordinary collections. And I was thrilled to watch and see Michaela Stark’s work develop and progress with her recent performance with Jean Paul Gaultier at space 3537 in Paris.
Alexander Fury, Director of Fashion Services
“It is always difficult to define a singular fashion moment, especially in such fractured and multifaceted times as these. But for me, three stood out this year – and all of them were fashion shows, the format I think we all realized we missed.
“The first was Pieter Mulier’s debut for Alaïa, a house that is very close to my heart. Set up on the street in front of Azzedine’s door, it was deeply respectful, but not static. It was a rethinking of the house codes for a new era and a new public, an investigation into the archives that Azzedine Alaïa so lovingly kept, but reworked. And I think Azzedine would have appreciated that. Subsequently, in a great tradition of Alaïa, everyone gathered to dine and celebrate the harvest. For me, after a long time, it was like coming home: going back to Paris, going back to Alaïa, going back to fashion.
“In the same week, the show at the show that unveiled the spectacular revival of Balenciaga’s haute couture line by Demna Gvasalia was impressive: not just the clothes, which were incredible, but the whole environment, resurrected from the past. It was like stepping into an archive image: it was there that I first met Miren Arzalluz, director of the Palais Galliera and former head of the Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation in Getaria. He looked like he was having a heart attack – that’s how impressive the resuscitation of those salons was. But the collection itself looked forward, rather than back, which is what couture should be about. A laboratory of ideas.
“Ideas are, of course, what makes Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons so exciting: I felt honored to be able to – finally! – physically experience one of their Prada shows. But it was also fascinating how they integrated technology into each of the two shows they staged, simultaneously, in Shanghai and Milan. It reflects, for me, how electronic communication has become part of our daily life, a very pushed idea to the extreme in the last two years. Here – as in reality – the video screens have opened windows between people all over the world, which seems like a nice concept. It reflects the positive outcomes of the strange life we have lived – and honestly, we will probably continue to live for quite some time. Thoughts that make you think, but great fashion continues to be created. And I’m incredibly grateful for that. “
Sophie Bew, editor
“I think Demna Gvasalia’s first couture offering for Balenciaga was one of the most exciting moments in fashion this year. Denim couture, padded opera coats and UFO saucer hats met and exceeded all expectations of such an event. Seeing Kim Kardashian wearing everything and on IRL also added an extra meta-joy to the whole shebang. “
Rebecca Perlmutar, fashion and marketing coordinator
“My favorite fashion moment of 2021 is personal. I’ve had the pleasure of working with designer Richard Malone for several years now, but this season’s Spring / Summer 2022 show was particularly special. Set in the Victoria & Albert Museum after closing time, the ornate setting has been a glorious backdrop for Richie’s new collection. Experiencing this with Richie and his team, stylist Nell Kalonji and casting director Holly Cullen was a moment I won’t soon forget. “
Ted Stansfield, digital editor
“I think my favorite fashion moment of 2021 was that of Rafael Pavarotti and Ibrahim Kamara Same spells, new rituals story in the Fall 2021 issue of Dazed. I keep going back. The colors, the textures, the silhouettes, the drama …
“At the risk of sounding corny, I feel IB uses clothing as a painter uses paint, or a sculpture uses material, brandishing shape, line, color and texture to create looks that border on art. Each of the looks from history is a masterpiece, but there are 32 of them.
“I can’t get over their variation and yet consistency too: they’re all so different, so imaginative, so incredibly creative, but they all seem to belong to the same universe. A universe that I seem to have never seen before, but in which I want to be immediately transported. Yet despite the creative mastery of all the looks, they also speak of the fun of dressing up. Which is what, at least in my mind, great fashion does ».