Pierre Cardin Tribute Fashion Show Looks to the Stars And Beyond – WWD

PARIS Pierre Cardin’s home paid tribute to its founder on the first anniversary of his death with an outdoor show held in front of a 57-meter-high replica of an Ariane 5 rocket.

The brand’s design team, led by Cardin’s great-grandson Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, presented around 200 creations on a runway set up on the asphalt of the National Aeronautics and Space Museum near Le Bourget airport, on the outskirts of Paris.

The Friday night show, held in front of 800 guests seated in open plastic tents, was broadcast live to the public in Moscow cinemas; Tirana, Albania; Dallas and Mexico City.

The collection, titled “Pierre Cardin 3022”, began with several dozen dresses designed by Cardin, who he continued to design until a few months before his death in December 2020 at the age of 98. They included a little black dress with a double circle hem, A-line dresses with graphic cutouts, and draped satin evening gowns.

Many of the dresses, inspired by his original 1967 Cosmocorps collection, were suitable for a “Star Trek” episode. He thinks of jackets and coats with triangular stand-up collars; all-in-one in two-tone knits and geometric suits accessorized with cosmonaut helmets, in a nod to a photograph of Cardin wearing Buzz Aldrin’s spacesuit at NASA in 1971.

The finale of the show Pierre Cardin 3022.
Giovanni Giannoni / WWD

“This year’s theme is space. It was the most dear topic to my uncle, ”said Basilicati-Cardin in an interview at Cardin’s headquarters in front of the Elysee presidential palace in Paris.

The last time she saw the veteran couturier, they watched a telecast of the departure of four tourists on a spaceship operated by Elon Musk’s Space X. “It was the only thing that made his eyes sparkle,” he said. “He was the original Space Age designer.”

The show marked the start of a busy year for the brand, which is in the process of energizing its licensing business as it aims to double revenue over the next five years. He plans to relaunch the pierrecardin.com website in February as a multipurpose online platform that will eventually include e-commerce.

Meanwhile, Cardin’s historic headquarters and boutique are closing for renovations, with plans to reopen at the end of the year with a new 6,450-square-foot museum on the first floor. Meanwhile, the house is opening a temporary women’s store on nearby Rue de Duras, while men’s clothing will be relocated to the Cardin store on Rue Royale, next to Maxim’s restaurant.

After its renovation last year, the restaurant is back on the fashion industry’s radar, hosting events including a Chanel high-jewelry dinner during Paris Fashion Week and the December wedding of influencer Camille Charrière and the film producer François Larpin.

Basilicati-Cardin declined to disclose the group’s revenues for 2021, other than saying they were up from the previous year. He has spent the past 12 months reviewing the house’s 600 licenses, renewing about a quarter of contracts in an effort to tighten control over product quality.

Cardin famously refused to delegate responsibilities, which means that certain aspects of his business were left unsupervised towards the end of his life.

“Over the past five years there has been a little less attention to our licenses and production has decreased. We are now in full recovery, despite COVID-19, so I’m happy, “his heir said, noting that the company has taken on the impact of the pandemic along with its partners, some of whom are in business with Cardin. for three decades.

Pierre Cardin 2022 - Cosmocorps 3022

The finale of the show Pierre Cardin 3022.
Giovanni Giannoni / WWD

Basilicati-Cardin hopes the show will inspire the brand’s approximately 200 licensees and bring new partners around the world.

“I’d like to have more Russian licensees,” he said, noting that Cardin at one point had 32 factories in the country during the Cold War. “They have the ability, the talent and the power to do it, why not in a more Russian style? The interesting thing is to see how [licensees] interpret our brand. The Chinese do a great job, for example ”.

The European Commission said on Monday that it has launched a formal antitrust investigation to assess whether Cardin and the German group Ahlers, its largest European licensee, may have violated EU competition rules by limiting the ability of licensees to sell products. licensed Pierre Cardin cross-border, also offline and online, as well as to specific customer groups. The house did not comment on the investigation.

Basilicati-Cardin works with a team of in-house designers, some of whom have been in the house for 35 years. “We produce between 15,000 and 18,000 designs per year,” he estimated, referring to the sketches provided to license holders.

“They are really great. I knew them before, but they cared exclusively for my uncle. He is now with me and we talk every day “, he added.” We feel united. We are all more or less the same age, from 50 to 55 years “.

An engineer by training, Basilicati-Cardin is encouraging the team to move to more sustainable fabrics, noting that Cardin was inspired by space travel to experiment with new and technologically advanced materials.

“At the time, it was focused on synthetics and plastics. Now, I’m trying to get the whole team to work with synthetic materials that are recycled or recycled, “he explained.” He was less concerned with environmental issues. He saw modernity. “

Pierre Cardin 2022 - Cosmocorps 3022

The finale of the show Pierre Cardin 3022.
Giovanni Giannoni / WWD

Basilicati-Cardin also ensures that the designer’s legacy is passed on to new generations, through collaborations with Istituto Marangoni and other fashion schools. About half of the guests at Friday’s show were fashion students. However, for the time being, plans for a cultural center in Houdan, 40 miles west of Paris, have been put on hold.

Basilicati-Cardin is working on another tribute to Cardin which will take place on 2 July, the centenary of his birth. The executive said it would be important for his great-uncle to see his design studio stay active.

“He doesn’t want to be toasted with Champagne. She would like to know that the young people enjoyed working for him. This is the greatest satisfaction, ”she said.

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