Men’s fashion week in Milan eyes dressing for post-Covid excursions

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Milan (AFP) – Fitted frock coats, bow ties and exuberant colors graced the runway while Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi both envisioned more glamorous, post-pandemic wardrobes for their fall / winter collections at Milan Men’s Fashion Week.

Stylist Silvia Venturini Fendi was inspired by the 1920s dandy at her fashion house show on Saturday, punctuating sophistication with touches of eccentricity.

The shows that have gone on have embraced a wardrobe suitable for post-pandemic excursions Miguel MEDINA AFP

Blazers turned into capes, knitwear featured oversized chest cutouts, and accessories veered towards the showy.

The collection also aimed for a more fluid interpretation of typically gendered dresses, with wide-leg trousers that morphed into half-skirts.

Silvia Venturini Fendi was inspired by the dandy of the 1920s, punctuating refinement with touches of eccentricity
Silvia Venturini Fendi was inspired by the dandy of the 1920s, punctuating refinement with touches of eccentricity Miguel MEDINA AFP

“We women wear men’s jackets, I don’t see why they couldn’t take inspiration from our wardrobe”, said the designer, granddaughter of the founders of the Italian fashion house.

At the show of the Sicilian duo Dolce & Gabbana, casual and tailored styles were mixed in a celebration of the return to the great outdoors.

Fendi's Fall / Winter Men's collection also aimed at a more fluid interpretation of typically gendered clothing
Fendi’s Fall / Winter Men’s collection also aimed at a more fluid interpretation of typically gendered clothing Miguel MEDINA AFP

Tailored to appeal to a younger generation, the show featured rap and punk music orchestrated by Machine Gun Kelly.

The models wore baggy coats with leopard or zebra prints, white suits embroidered with pearls or skin-tight pants and tuxedos with broad shoulders and narrow waists.

Others were wrapped in thick oversized duvets in bold colors or eco-friendly furs, ready to take on the winter cold on post-Covid hikes.

Dolce & Gabbana models wrapped in boldly colored oversized down jackets, ready to face the winter cold during post-Covid excursions
Dolce & Gabbana models wrapped in boldly colored oversized down jackets, ready to face the winter cold during post-Covid excursions Miguel MEDINA AFP

And as with Fendi, the skirt has become part of the male wardrobe, with the designer duo citing the ability of young people to freely choose their clothes, without worrying about gender.

Both shows continued despite the hiatus sown across Europe by the growing Omicron variant, which reduced the fashion week calendar.

The Sicilian duo mixed casual and tailored styles in a celebration of the return to the great outdoors
The Sicilian duo mixed casual and tailored styles in a celebration of the return to the great outdoors Miguel MEDINA AFP

After Giorgio Armani announced the retirement, the number of physical shows was reduced from 23 to 16. Eighteen brands opted for a purely virtual presence, while others presented their collections by appointment.

However, those who moved on, like Dsquared2 on Friday, embraced the return to the runway.

In their first live show in two years – in the presence of soccer star Zlatan Ibrahimovic – the Canadian twins behind the label displayed a festival of bright yellows, pinks, reds and blues along with floral, sequin and crystal embroidery.

The designer duo cited the ability of young people to freely choose their clothes, without worrying about gender
The designer duo cited the ability of young people to freely choose their clothes, without worrying about gender Miguel MEDINA AFP

With a glimmer of hope and a lot of enthusiasm, Dsquared2’s globetrotting styles were a nod to step out of the cocoon and take a long-awaited journey.

© 2022 AFP

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