Even in a world increasingly obsessed with the metaverse, Physical Fashion Weeks remain the trendsetters of our wardrobe. Over the past two years, these summits have fluctuated, largely due to Covid-19 and its variants, back and forth between digital, in-person and “figital” presentations. Despite the upheaval, the fact remains that there’s no more powerful showcase than what’s going to happen stylistically than these events – and it’s not always just about clothes: Fashion Weeks initiate conversations about identity and self-presentation and how attitudes evolve fit or reflect popular culture.
Kanye West and Julia Fox arrived together at the Kenzo show. Credit: Pascal Le segretain / Getty Images for Kenzo
The latest edition of Paris Fashion Week, which unveiled a bounty of menswear for the Fall-Winter 2022 season, has taken a wave of demolition of the old menswear conventions as a new normal continues to be established. With ideas that were often dismantled or mixed according to genre, infused with surrealism and other uninhibited motifs, the designers pushed forward an agenda that seemed broader – and bolder – than usual.
Read on for highlights from seven standout shows.
Buzz in the front row at Kenzo
Stylist and musician Nigo, who founded streetwear label A Bathing Ape in 1993, presented his first collection for the Kenzo label in front of a lively crowd, including a Kanye West (or Ye as he prefers) dressed of jeans that was there with Julia Fox (Fox wore a denim look by Schiaparelli). Pharrell Williams was also spotted wearing eye-catching Tiffany & Co. diamond-rimmed sunglasses.
Pharrell Williams at the Kenzo show wears a pair of Tiffany & Co sunglasses. Credit: Victor Boyko
The catwalk was the first show of the new artistic director, Nigo. Credit: Pascal Le segretain / Getty Images
While stylistic references to the year 1970 were seen in the form of embroidery and patches on caps and varsity jackets, there was a fashion trend in the collection, with a plethora of separate pieces and a safe use of plaids, patterns and colors. Both tailoring and workwear cut a genderless silhouette.
Great ideas at Loewe
Playful images and bare skin were the key components of the Loewe show. Credit: Peter White / Getty Images
For Fall-Winter 2022, Anderson offered an overcoat decorated with holiday lights, denim micro shorts, a gloved sweater with long tendrils of fabric running down the fingertips, and a sweater with a heart-shaped keyhole that showed her left nipple. He also sent a knitted muumuu featuring a meme-worthy cat with a parakeet on his head. The designer told the media that the collection was partially inspired by what we see, day after day, on the screens of our phones.
One last moment at Louis Vuitton
The late Virgil Abloh’s latest collection for Louis Vuitton was another extraordinary moment. The lineup was fantastic and dreamlike, and played with the signatures and clues that Abloh had woven into his work during his three and a half years at home before his untimely passing last year. There were men in skirts, lace suits worn as wings, hats with spiked ears, a Wizard of Oz motif, colorful Keepall duffel bags, comic-style illustrations, and so much more (as was typical of Abloh, ideas didn’t they never really stopped).
Behind the scenes of the Louis Vuitton fashion show. Credit: Matthew Dortomb / Louis Vuitton
Cutting-edge Fun by Rick Owens
Helmets inspired by ancient Egyptian artifacts have been fastened with light bulbs and hoods have become zippered face covers, complete with tiny cutouts for visibility. A sleeveless shirt cheekily uttered the word “urinal”.
Rick Owens adorned his new collection with working light bulbs. Credit: Valerio Mezzanotti / OwensCorp
The collection included T-shirts with unusual writings such as “Subhuman”, “Inhuman”, “Superhuman” and “Urinal”. Credit: Valerio Mezzanotti
Hints of Gaultier at Y / Project
The Y / Project show featured a range of body prints from head to toe. Credit: Peter White / Getty Images
Bluemarble – by Anthony Alvarez – hosted its first show this season. Alvarez coined his label after a nickname for planet earth, which originated from a photograph taken by Apollo 17 in 1972. Blending American sportswear, European savoir-faire and Filipino handcrafted touches, his production has produced funky clothing, fun and cozy looking like like a generously broken pair of denim pants, lined with a twist cut with glittery fabric strips.
The Bluemarble collection was full of fun details. Credit: Blue marble
Kim Jones’ latest collection paid tribute to the founder of Dior. Credit: Stephane Cardinale / Corbis / Getty Images
Jones’s introspection proved remarkable. Most notable was his version of Dior’s famous “Bar” jacket, introduced in 1947, for women. It features a cut and construction that adds subtle hourglass curves to the garment’s architecture, and Dior’s idea was so groundbreaking at the time that he suggested a whole nickname for his creative work: the “New Look”. The men’s versions of Jones featured double-breasted finishes with topstitched seams.
Top image: Dior recreated the Alexandre III bridge for its menswear runway.