PARIS – Hermes led the group on Saturday’s episode of Paris Fashion Week as its veteran menswear designer, Veronique Nichanian, gave an atypical glam rock touch to her lush items.
There was no distant concept, gimmick or muse, unlike most Parisian shows, because it wasn’t necessary. Nichanian – who has been at the helm of this family-owned business for an incredible 34 years – is an expert at letting the clothes do the talking.
Meanwhile, a fun and unconventional dish welcomed the guests of the Loewe show. They walked on the sand and walked under 4,000 multicolored satin ribbons of different lengths – a site-specific work of art – to find their place.
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Minimalism is emerging as one of the key themes of this whole autumn-winter season. Here are some highlights from the 2022 menswear exhibits:
LOEWE’S SURREAL UNIVERSE
The disconcerting music conjured up something of a dangerous playground as clothes began to be displayed on Loewe’s sandy boardwalk. “Nothing is as it seems,” said the bewitching display house.
Jonathan Anderson, the designer of the historic Spanish brand, said he wanted to disrupt normality and everyday life with this surreal universe.
He gave a twist to the essentials of autumn-winter, puffing up a pair of dark boots with a round toe, for example, in almost clown proportions.
A white tee and black shorts became abstract works of art with huge circular circles inserted at the hems to create the illusion that the model had been cut diagonally across its center.
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A minimalist, oversized coffee-colored coat looked quite understated from the front. But when the model turned around, the garment had a double circular pattern in the center that resembled a shiny back and inspired guests to snap their cameras.
STYLE OF HERMES
Nichanian melted her hair during her left bank runway show for Hermes, infusing typically high-fashion designs with a subtle yet distinct ’80s flair.
Sheeny Gunmetal Leather Riding Boots Accessorized With Wide Padded Zippered Bomber Jackets. The high waist on the pleated wool pants creates a contrast to the retro bucket hats that slope down.
The style contradictions represented what the house said was Nichanian’s “heartfelt desire for oxymorons and refinement”.
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Hermes has become synonymous with simple and unpretentious luxury. With panache, the veteran menswear designer proved that the adage is accurate in this classy, masculine show.
The collection featured a bolder color palette dotted with browns, bronzes, and what the house poetically referred to as “peppers, pewter, conifers, and lettuce green (and) frost blue.”
LGN BECOMES NOSTALGIC FOR CLUBBING
French writer Charles Baudelaire was the creative starting point for emerging French fashion designer Louis Gabriel Nouchi, who launched his LGN brand five years ago after being first noticed by the Hyeres fashion and photography festival.
Minimalism is the key to understanding the aesthetics of this trendy brand, which has just opened a boutique in the hipster area of rue Oberkampf in Paris.
Nouchi said he aimed to have a “modern reflection” on Baudelaire’s book “Artificial Paradises,” which examines 19th-century hedonism and the effects of drug use on the body. The designer used it to explore the nostalgia of closed nightclubs in France during the pandemic.
The LGN collection featured lots of exposed skin, sunglasses, loose bodysuits and tees, and tops that seemed to drip onto the models like sweat. More literally, at some point, real sweat stains were created on a sweatshirt.
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The colors were dark and sober – often monochromatic – and interrupted only by the strange flame-colored flash of the scarf print. The handlebar mustache on a near-nude model in cropped white underwear evoked the intoxicating narcotic heights of a drug-fueled festival.
AURALEE IS HUGGABLE
“Light, bright, luminous” was a rather unusual autumn-winter mantra for Auralee.
Yet the Tokyo-based brand that imagines a sun peeking out of snowy skies, rather than channeling autumn into the mood or color palette, has created a nice change of season, especially in the low, gray Paris sky.
The pastel grays and browns, dark vanilla and celestial blues that blossomed on the Auralee runway were among the most beautiful colors seen all week. The colors were used in tonal harmony on well executed dresses that had a great reduced simplicity.
The Japanese house, founded in 2015 by Ryota Iwai, is known for using top quality materials from all over the world. Those used in the collection on display on Saturday gave the garments a truly luxurious look. Myriads of mixed herringbone tweeds of wool and alpaca silk, organic cotton of cashmere wool, “hairy” mohair knit and textured baby camel melton.
It was one of the most huggable shows of the season.