Emerging talents in spotlight at hybrid Paris Fashion Week

By TOMMASO ADAMSON

PARIS (AP) – A series of Paris Fashion Week menswear shows kicked off in earnest this week for the fall-winter season, as French government restrictions have seen many relegated to an online-only presence.

Those brands that chose to keep physical shows, like AMI Wednesday, may not end up regretting it, benefiting, as they seem, from a relative increase in coverage. As always, the beginning of the collections show mainly emerging talents, before the week leads to big hits in the sector such as Dior, Louis Vuitton and Hermes.

Here are some highlights from the Fall Winter 2022 fashion shows.

CHRIST LEMAIRE

Tasteful and deceptively simple designs graced Lemaire’s runway in a sublime collection. The 56-year-old designer, whose full name is Christophe Lemaire, is a master of the Parisian calendar boasting a resume second to none and has included a four-year stint as Hermes boss since 2010.

These talents were widely shown for her fall-winter show which employed meticulous detail, pre-war styles in muted tones and proportionate play for a thought-provoking statement.

The men’s and women’s models blend effortlessly. Block heels from the ’70s mixed with the wide or dropped waist of the’ 20s, while the oversized coats looked 30s and trendy.

The low energy of the narrow color palette of taupe, beige, autumn blue-grays was effective in giving this funky collection a classicism. Even the humble denim jacket evoked a timeless vibe, made loose and clean lines, with the feel of a young and upbeat 1950s USA.

STEVEN PASSARO

The pandemic has had a devastating impact on numerous fashion houses, forcing the cancellation of high-budget and highly media-driven collections due to government restrictions in favor of digital videos showing new designs.

Although these videos attract a global audience on Instagram, fashion editors agree that the intoxicating blend of in-person clothes, adrenaline, staging and celebrity that makes up a Paris Fashion Week show is hard to emulate on one. digital platform.

But the new hybrid calendar wasn’t all bad news. For some it went well: in particular the houses. Steven Passaro, who first appeared in the official Paris Fashion Week line-up, is a designer whose importance has grown thanks to the new digital presentation style.

Passaro, 29, says he doesn’t have the financial means to organize a proper Paris fashion week with all the related investments and razzmatazz. A video, on the other hand, was achievable.

“This is my first time on the calendar. It was possible because the Federation (of Parisian fashion) did not want me to do a fashion show. Making a video means spending a lot less, “Passaro told The Associated Press as he prepared the launch of his first video titled” We hear things they’ll never hear. “

“It gives smaller homes like us great opportunities,” he said.

Passaro, whose aesthetic mixes couture with applied tailoring and an emphasis on hypersensitive looks, graduated from London College of Fashion, before founding his eponymous brand in 2019. But buyers, he said, were not yet ready to accept. its models. Now, those who have “observed my development” for a while have indicated that they want to buy his collection because it is present in the official line-up. “PFW has helped us be credible as a brand.”

Passaro also reflected on how larger homes would fare in the face of the unprecedented limitations of physical spectacles. Older, established houses – which tend to throw money at art issues – struggled to create useful fashion videos at the start of the pandemic, he said, while “young creatives who are used to thinking on their feet” were in the their element.

BLUE MARBLE

Cultural fusion and a melting pot mentality were key to designer Anthony Alvarez when he organized his first scheduled show for his fashion label Blue Marble.

The Alvarez branding was borrowed from the iconic photographic image of the Earth taken in 1972 by the crew of Apollo 17 as it headed for the Moon. Clearly, he is a symbol of the brand that harks back to Alvarez’s legacy: he was born in New York but is a mix of Filipino, Spanish, French and Italian roots.

Fittingly, the collection celebrated this globetrotting vision with jaw-dropping colors and a myriad of references. The early looks are said to have been inspired by the nuanced sails of traditional boats in the Philippines as they sail across the ocean.

The geometric shapes rendered in purples, yellows and pinks gave the collection a funky touch, as it mixed with ironic quirky details.

Psychedelic knitwear, 90s sunglasses, tailored coats with glitter edges mixed with booties reminiscent of surfwear.

Alvarez is another example of how the hybrid digital fashion calendar has put the spotlight on smaller homes.

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