By THOMAS ADAMSON, AP fashion writer
PARIS (AP) – The atelier – the laboratory of hands – was the protagonist of Dior on Monday for a refined fashion show on the first day of the Parisian fashion week, which aims to enhance the work of the tailors behind the scenes of the maison.
Stars flocked to the Musee Rodin venue, including actress Rosamund Pike and “The Crown” star Claire Foy, who posed for the cameras, exclaiming, “It’s beautiful. I’m in awe. “
Another VIP in attendance, model and actress Cara Delevingne, was criticized for not wearing a mask.
Here are some highlights from Monday’s Spring-Summer 2022 couture collections:
Political cartoons about world leaders
DIOR CELEBRATES ITS CRAFTSMANSHIP
Fashion designer Maria Grazia Chiuri said she wanted to demonstrate how the craft of dozens of “petites main” seamstresses, many of whom have worked in ateliers for decades, was just as important as art or fashion itself.
A case in point was the embroidery of white beaded tapestries on an ecru-colored wool twill textured coat. Here, rather than embellishing the garment, they even created the silhouette, which was heavy and chic. Art and crafts, Chiuri said through clothes, are the same thing.
An ash gray crepe skirt with a high waist looked almost alive thanks to its myriad of long embroideries that rustled and shivered on the pixie-like pattern.
Embroidered tights were also a big theme for spring, with Dior’s army of seamstresses going to work embellishing several on-trend pieces. Unfortunately the weight of sequin embroidery hasn’t always cut the flattering shapes on some tights, all of which are finely executed.
In terms of style, there were hints of the trendy 60s, with features like Peter Pan collars that appeared on sensual sheer organza blouses, or the elegant Bar silhouette tuxedo suits with bold black satin lapels for men.
MASKLESS LIKE DELEVINGNE DA DIOR
Strict measures were implemented during Paris Fashion Week to comply with French government guidelines amid a wave of new omicron-driven infections.
COVID-19 has brought the fashion industry to its knees by seeing countless shows canceled, even ending entire seasons, and shows are only re-proposed on condition that guests show vaccination proof and wear masks while seated. It is the same rule for everyone, celebrities or journalists. France is currently recording the highest daily coronavirus cases in Europe.
Actress Rosumund Pike set a good example by carefully wearing the mask as soon as she sat down, despite wearing an intricate Dior couture headdress. Nearby, “The Crown” star Claire Foy also donned a mask after passing the phone call.
Model and actress Cara Delevingne, however, turned heads for all the wrong reasons: not wearing a mask while looking at the creations from the front row.
SCHIAPARELLI ASKS FOR A HIGHER POWER FOR ANSWERS
Daniel Roseberry said of his couture collection that he wanted to respond to the “pervasive sense of exhaustion” and that feeling of “luck” that the pandemic has given to many.
In particular, the designer Schiaparelli wondered at the drawing board how the distinctive surrealist motifs of the house – first married by the late, great Elsa Schiaparelli between the two world wars – can be relevant in a world where reality itself was changing.
The answer? He ascended to heaven, channeling the celestial. It was, he said, “a move towards the elemental” to understand chaos.
This couture collection thus became the realm of the high fashion priestess, the one who wore exaggerated circular headdresses, wore gold, black and white and floated sparkling and shining.
Gold jewelry – a specially created shade in 24K leaf – hovered around a model’s torso in all directions as if suspended by supernatural powers. The silhouettes of the columns rose in white spliced bodices that opened over the torso like a space-age flower, or in a giant graphic jeweled breastplate in black.
Some of the silhouettes bordered on pastiche, such as protruding spikes emanating incoherently from a model’s torso.
But the meticulous construction of many dresses, such as one with golden tentacles that tip over like a jellyfish, certainly made up for it. The sumptuous setting – Le Petit Palais – with its myriad of moldings and busts also added to the Greek dramatic effect.
GAULTIER REMEMBER THIERRY MUGLER
French designer Thierry Mugler, whose fantastic designs have been worn by celebrities such as Madonna, Lady Gaga and Cardi B, has died at 73. The announcement on his official Instagram said he died on Sunday.
A contemporary of the French couturier Jean Paul Gaultier who admired his work, Mugler was known for his architectural style, defined by broad shoulders and a slim waist. Much has been said over the years about the tensions between the two fashion greats, rumors that according to Gaultier belong to the past.
In a bittersweet message Monday, Gaultier told The Associated Press that his old acquaintance is now “gone to renew the angels and demons up there. The sky was his color.”
“A huge talent,” he added. “Always looking for perfection with his unique style!”
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