4SDesigns Fall 2022 Menswear Collection

Check out the menswear collections for Fall 2022 and you will find a surprising number of coats. Great coats! Beautiful coats! But underneath all that layering in a lot of cases is the suit, and underneath that suit, well, the clothes the guys will wear every day don’t really seem to matter. Where are the new ideas for menswear? The new shapes, silhouettes and fabrics that will upset the sartorial tradition in 2022?

4SDesigns by Angelo Urrutia has ace of outerwear, but the story of this collection is a story of textile experimentation. Working with mills throughout Italy, he developed a pastel spotted tweed, an irregular quilted viscose plaid, a virgin wool tube, a wool and cashmere melton, a recycled cotton bouclé … to list them all would take up space for the whole review. What happens next is that he transforms these materials, some a little rough, like the collage tie fabric, and others refined, like the foliage brocade, into humble and easy-to-adopt shapes.

Urrutia is an expert in removing stuffing and choking from men’s clothing. The inside of each garment is meticulously considered – its sheepskin hooded poncho has fur-lined interior pockets – but the overall effect is something shrug. Not too valuable. The sleeves of the jackets are unlined, the field shirts are airy and the pants come with an adjustable waistband in most cases and a good deal of pleating in the others. The casual nature is derived from Urrutia’s upbringing in Queens and the way he and his friends dress now: even at dinner at a Michelin-starred restaurant, everyone seems comfortable, at ease and at home.

Which brings us to the larger idea here. Inspired by the decor of the past Country town magazines, he called this collection Town & Country, Homeland — in Spanish Pueblo & Pais, Patria — exploring ideas of what it means to feel at home. A yellow jersey takes its graphic from the markings on the US-Mexico border. The handmade headdresses and feather motifs are inspired by Central American culture. (Urrutia is from El Salvador.) Other pieces make a nod to Armani and Chanel, but are less punchy than what the designer does best: creating clothes for boys of the world with the swagger to bring out a new kind of luxury. Much cooler than a collection of coats.

.

Leave a Comment