This pre-fall season is the smallest we’ve followed on Vogue Runway in nearly a decade, with around 100 men’s and women’s collections in total. In the past, our pre-fall coverage has taken our critics all over the world. With Omicron peaking this year, some brands are trying to make the most of a difficult situation; others are taking the season off. Milanese independent designer Marco Zanini said: “Sometimes going forward with reckless stubbornness is not as smart, wise or courageous as stopping to think”.
Even in the best of times, pre-fall has traditionally been a makeshift season, focused more on selling than on new ideas. But after two years of the pandemic, even the idea of selling clothes has become abstract. At this point, what do buyers want or even need? The tips here revolve around the notion of a useful and simple beauty. Warm textures, sunny colors, and loads of sexy, basic black clothes are the main textures of the season, with some kitsch and fun coming through the continuing year 2000 revival – now for the boys! – and a renewed interest in deconstructed denim and strange layering.
If the past is anything to move on, these dresses will become the backbone of our spring and summer wardrobes, accentuated by the sure big, crazy and quirky ideas on the fall 2022 runways next month.
The denim revival is going strong this season, with brands like Diesel, Balenciaga and R13 blasting jeans into new proportions. Others, such as Louis Vuitton menswear and MM6 Maison Margiela, are completely rethinking denim, using trompe l’oeil techniques to evoke the texture of denim on more welcoming fabrics.